Adventures of a Wandering Thirtysomething

Machu Picchu and the Inca trail trek have been on our travel bucket list longer than any other destination and today was the day it finally became real.

Before you can even start the 4 day, 27 mile trek you must take time to acclimate to the altitude. Rather than just wander the streets of Cusco yesterday, Christina and I hired a driver and headed out to the Pisac ruins. This Incan city stands guard atop a hill overlooking the sacred valley trade route. Climbing up and down the terraces and remaining city walls, we got our first taste of the altitude. While I had no illusions about my current fitness level even wifey was winded, struggling to catch her breath, after climbing only a handful of steps. While struggling to adjust to the altitude we left Pisac confident, that by just taking our time and breathing smart, our upcoming trek could be conquered.

A four hour car ride this morning brought us to the departure point of the Inca trail. This first day was to entail a casual 7 mile hike along the Urubamba river, the largest tributary of the Amazon river, arriving at our first campsite in the village of Huayllabamba.

Christina and I learned arriving at the trail head, that instead of the 8 porters we expected to have accompany us, it had been arranged for us to be sent with a group of 10. 10 men would be carrying enormous bags full of supplies including our duffel bags of clothes. They would also do this at a faster pace than us, allowing them to setup lunch before we arrived and then in the afternoon out pacing us again to setup camp.

The early part of the trail was relatively flat and we started at a strong pace despite the blaring sun. By the time we started to near our designated lunch area however, my pace was drastically slowing, and it was becoming evident that day one was not going to be a breeze. Greeted by our team with applause and a cool wet towel, I collapsed in the grass and rested, while Christina made friends with the local pets. Nearby out team had laid out buckets of fresh boiled water for us to wash up, a standing tent complete with porta-potty and potpourris had been assembled should we need it and a large tent was busy with porters preparing lunch.

In no time our multicourse lunch was ready and we stepped into the dining tent. Inside a large table was set with tablecloth and cloth napkins, actual silverware and dishes. Lunch as dinner would be later was delicious. Unfortunately, since arriving at altitude in Cusco, I had almost entirely lost my appetite. I sadly walked away from my half-eaten plate and laid back down in the grass where Christina claims I fell asleep with my head on the water bottle.

Leaving our porters to clean up and tear down we hit the trail. With the late afternoon came some much needed shade and we continued hiking upriver to the village of Huayllabamba. The remote village, reachable only on foot, would be our campsite for the night and the last outpost of human settlement we would encounter.

Arriving at camp only slightly ahead of us, we watched our porters assemble our evening campsite. Watching them work I realized they were carrying two full-size propane tanks up this mountain to do all the cooking. Familiar with the little stove I carried when backpacking as a teenager, the idea of them hauling two full-size tanks up the mountain struck me as a symbol of how spoiled we are going to be on this trek. At the camp site we also observed some of the other groups. Porter teams of similar size were guiding large groups of hikers. These exhausted hikers were setting up their own camps while we relaxed and enjoyed the sunset. I am feeling very fortunate and thankful for our experience.

Tomorrow brings with it the most difficult day of hiking with the first 3 miles straight uphill for 3,200 feet. This is the point where if people are going to get altitude sickness, it hits. I’m praying that I can make it and not let Christina down. While I’m nervous, I know that our team will be doing everything they can to help see me to the top. I’ll be having lots of coca gum and coca tea.