Adventures of a Wandering Thirtysomething

After the emotional high of Machu Picchu, we hit a bit of crash period – the let down after completing something we had dreamed about for so many years. Thankfully, we planned a few days of exploring and relaxation in Arequipa and Colca Canyon to wind down the trip.

Admittedly, it was a bit of a shock to go from the lush green landscapes of the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu to the dry and dusty desert of south Peru. Similarly, after several days of peace and quiet on the trail, it assailed our senses to hear the incessant honking of cars and smell the stench of diesel exhaust in the city.

We managed to find solace with a visit to the Santa Catalina monastery, a 16^th century structure that has housed cloistered nuns for centuries. A respite from the noise and smells of urban life, the monastery was a city unto itself with quiet, flower-lined streets and courtyards ringed with colorful archways. We ducked inside the dark cells that had inhabited the nuns, winding our way through crude kitchens and narrow hallways where peace, prayer and simple living reigned.

Afterward, we enjoyed the beautiful Spanish architecture of the main square before heading to the Museo Santuarios Andinos to see Juanita, the Incan maiden who had been sacrificed atop a nearby volcano. An incredible discovery, Juanita is the best-preserved human ever found. With skin, hair, clothing and even internal organs still intact, it was both fascinating and heartbreaking to see her and think of the sacrifice she made, along with many other children who have similarly been found on the local mountains and volcanoes as offerings to the Incan gods 500+ years ago.

The next day it was off to Colca Canyon. With our guide, Pilar, and driver, Lucia, we headed out from Arequipa into the Peruvian southwest – the mountainous, volcanic desert of cactus and scrub brush. Along the way we spotted and photographed vicuña and watched the Huaynaputina volcano spew white plumes of steam from the high point of the drive at 16,000+ feet. After four hours of winding our way through mountainous desert, we arrived at beautiful Colca Canyon Lodge and spent the afternoon exploring pre-Incan ruins at Uyo Uyo, then spending some time with the alpacas at the lodge’s ranch.

The following morning, we met up with local farmers to get a taste of farm life in Peru. Walking from the center of town down dirt roads to the farmer’s plot of land, we picked our way through the fields to help harvest corn alongside the colorfully dressed local ladies who were at least 20-30 years older than us and quickly tackling the same laborious tasks. After shucking beautiful and brightly colored corn that would be used for Peruvian popcorn, we made our way over to the cows to help milk them. Having never milked cows before, Matt and I were both slow and clumsy at the task. Thankfully, the cows and the farmers were patient and kind, allowing us to get our fill of milking before they swiftly and expertly filled a large bucket with fresh milk in no time.

Taking the bucket of milk, we then plopped down in the field to make cheese right on the spot. The farmer pulled out a bottle of liquid to help the curdling process – it was the stomach and liquid of a dead baby alpaca that apparently gives the cheese its distinct flavor. Though a bit odd and off putting to think of, we greatly appreciated how even the unfortunate death of an animal has value and utility for the creation of other things in this culture. Plus, it worked. After just 15 minutes, the bucket of milk had begun to separate into curds and whey, which the farmer then formed into small balls to place in molds that would be finished cheese by the afternoon.

After a morning of farming, we took the afternoon off to give our muscles a much-needed break in the hot springs at our resort. The rushing water of the river, the wind in the surrounding hills, and the cozy heat of the pools helped us finally feel like we could wind down and close out our trip to Peru.

But, before we could head back to the States, we had just one final thing to do – see the condors. Revered by the Incans, these beautiful birds with a 10 foot wingspan are best seen in the morning in Colca Canyon where they use the lift of the steam vents to soar high along the cliffs of the canyon. We arrived extra early to claim our spot at the best vantage point, and then patiently waited for nearly an hour and a half for the sun to rise high enough to warm the canyon and set the birds flying.

It was worth the wait.

As if on cue, the sunlight reached the bottom of the canyon and more than 20 condors began soaring around us. Higher and higher they rose until they skimmed over us, silently circling as the crowd of tourists oohed and aahed. Despite us not being particularly educated or enthusiastic bird watchers, the condors were a fascinating sight to behold against a gorgeous backdrop of