Adventures of a Wandering Thirtysomething

Our next days in Lisbon had us putting in some major mileage on our feet.

If there’s one reminder of just how much we sit all day at work, it’s going on one of our vacations. On a good day at work, I’m happy if I can get in 8,000 steps. On a vacation day, I can easily put in 25,000+. I just consider it the trade off for eating dessert at every meal.

After a busy first day in Belem, we spent our second day exploring the city core and walking our way through its most well-known neighborhoods. From the large squares and wide streets of the post-1755 earthquake to the hillside homes on narrow, cobbled lanes, we experienced far more of the city’s color and charm. Beautiful and ornate churches, black and white patterned squares and paths, views from atop the city’s many hills and parks, and even a ride up and down the 150-foot-tall Elevador de Santa Justa designed by a student of Gustav Eiffel.  

And, thankfully, the trolleys were redeemed! The #12 trolley, which wound its way up the hills within mere inches of hitting buildings and cars, was not only empty but a far more pleasant ride through the cutest parts of town.

The following day had us heading out to the aristocratic escape of Sintra. We started with the colorful Pena Palace at the tippy top of the hills. At first glance, it looked far more like a fake Disneyland ride than a real palace with its bright Mickey Mouse colors and Magic Kingdom design. Once inside, it looked a bit more like an authentic castle with intricate woodwork and teeny tiny beds for the royalty. I thought my Portuguese family was super short, but just a 150 years ago or so they must have been four feet tall given the kid-sized beds and furniture found in every room.

We then hiked our way down through the palace gardens to the 1,000-year-old Moorish castle on the cliffside with its more rugged walls and narrow pathways between turrets, and then on to the National Palace dating from a similar time but upgraded in the 15^th century. We capped our day with a walk through the over-the-top Quinta de Regaleira, a 1912 mansion and gardens that were designed by an Italian opera set designer for one of the royals.

 

After three straight days of walking 10+ miles each day, we were pooped. So, we rented a car and headed to the beach. Just an hour and a half South of Lisbon, we parked ourselves on one of the best beaches we’ve ever been to. Miles and miles of perfect white sand, clear blue water, and no crowds. With snacks and drinks from the beach shack and some rented chairs and cabana, we gave our tired bodies a rest and soaked up some of our last pieces of summer. It was heaven, and finally helped us relax into vacation mode.

Next stop: Sevilla.