Adventures of a Wandering Thirtysomething

After three days of small town life on the island of Pico we returned to Sao Miguel, where our trip had briefly begun in the rain-soaked and deserted streets of Ponta Delgada. It’s sneaky just how peaceful and alone you can begin to feel hiking around an island were the entire population is shy of 15,000. The realization hits when you suddenly feel engulfed in the chaos of the urban hustle and bustle that is Ponta Delgada.

On any of our other European adventures Ponta Delgada would easily register in the “sleepy” category, but we were now on island time. Navigating the narrow streets with 12-inch sidewalks and cars seemingly passing close enough to brush the hair on your arms, it was a genuine shock to the system. For a good two hours we were like sailors trying to regain our sea-legs exploring the black and white city.

Everywhere you look in the Azores, the buildings are constructed using whitewash and volcanic stone, creating a black and white theme carried from the buildings all the way to the streets and the sidewalks. Throughout the old town, sidewalks are covered in black and white stones laid out in myriad patterns and designs, each street different from the next. Climbing the old city hall bell tower was a great way to take it all in and, as a bonus, watch Wifey climb an insanely narrow, old spiral stairwell in terror. It’s about life’s little pleasures when traveling, and one of mine is finding the oldest, narrowest, ricketiest stairwells in Europe and making Christina climb them with me.

By the time dinner rolled around we had begun to move back to a place of relaxation, and we headed for a stroll to the main square. The Festival of the Christ of Miracles had resulted in a deserted Ponta Delgada our first time through town, but this night it provided us with a terrific surprise.  Rounding the corner into the square we were greeted with an atmosphere that was part county fair, part religious pilgrimage, part concert in the park. The square was filled with food carts selling all your classic fair fare from cotton candy and kettle corn to elephant ears. There was even a carousel full of local kids and men walking around selling balloons of Disney and Pixar characters.

A gazebo in the middle of the square hosted a live performance of classic Azorean choruses that echoed off the surrounding whitewashed buildings. Above all the celebration the church shone bright with every inch of facade lit up like the house in Christmas Vacation. Inside is housed a bust of Christ that is the focal point of this festival. It’s believed to be a symbol of hope and, on this holiday, the Azorean people give thanks for all of God’s blessings. Those who have immigrated to America even return for this celebration to honor God for the opportunities he has provided them. People took turns making their way into the church to say prayers of gratitude, many through streaming tears. It was a great time just walking and taking it all in.