Postcard beaches and some monkey business
Posted by Matt VerHeul | | Posted On Sunday, March 23, 2014 at 1:06 AM
We planned our trip to Thailand strategically: sights and
cities first, beaches and relaxation last.
Rayavadee is situated among three distinct beaches separated
by limestone cliffs that create a natural border for the resort. The resort
owns the most beautiful of those beaches, Pharang, and then borders the famous West
Railay Beach and East Railay Beach. Accommodations are two-story luxury villas
tucked amongst the jungle between the these beaches. Add to this location the
very best service that a country known for hospitality has to offer and it all
added up to pure paradise.
ing each other decided that Christina looked like a good playmate and together went after her while she fended them off with her book. I stood by laughing as an employee quickly shooed them away. Karma got the best of me later when a monkey high in a tree peed on me while walking to our room.
With plenty of wildlife and beach hopping to keep us entertained,
the only occasion for leaving our resort was to climb the limestone cliffs for
breath-taking views. With a guide from the hotel and a small group, we ascended
through a bat cave into total darkness with just a few headlamps serving as our
lighting and climbed up makeshift wooden ladders and ropes to a viewpoint high
above Railay Beach. Plunged into darkness and concerned about the rickety
bamboo ladders collapsing under my weight, Christina and I chuckled at the lack
of warning provided by the hotel for such an undertaking. This was not an
activity any hotel in the United States would sanction.
From Rayavadee, we headed on to the islands. Ko Phi Phi Don
(the larger island) is to Southeast Asia what Cabo San Lucas is to North
America. It’s a party town and comes with the young, frat house types who go to
party towns. In short, the shirts were few and the beer was plenty. Thankfully,
I was well aware of the island’s party reputation and booked us on a quieter
part of the island where the beach was nicer and the loud music, partying and
fire dancing was no where to be found.
But Phi Phi Don is nothing more than a home base. The star
attraction here is the uninhabited island of Phi Phi Leh and specifically Maya
Bay. When you put an image of paradise on a postcard, this is it. It’s also
this image that set my heart on visiting Thailand in the first place. We
arranged for a private boat to take us there just after sunrise to beat the
crowds in our typical fashion, and for a couple hours it was surreal. Then the
boats started to come. I wouldn’t consider myself opposed to crowds but this
was a mob. Christina and I had made ourselves a spot on the beach spreading out
our towels and lathering on our sunscreen, but the masses of humanity that
showed up surprised us not just in volume but in what they spent their time
doing on the beach.
We learned that most people visiting the island do a tour
that hops to several beaches throughout the day and Maya Bay was just a one
hour stop for most. This resulted in hoards of people visiting one of the most
beautiful beaches in the world, not to swim and layout in the sun, but as an
attraction. They would get off their jam-packed speed boats, walk up and down
the beach to take ridiculous pictures and generally behave obnoxiously, many
not even wearing swimsuits, and then leave. We laid there trying to imagine ourselves
as the only ones on the beach while hundreds of people walked all around our
towels. Our imagining proved futile so we eventually caved and packed up shop.
After our boat driver took us to tour the rest of the island and swim in the
lagoon, we retired to the quiet beach of our resort and basked in the sun and
the peace for our final night in Thailand.
Now we’re heading home to Nashville. Our trip to the other
side of the world is complete and our Southern summer and Sundays at the pool with
rum smoothies can’t come soon enough. Just crossing my fingers that my new tan
won’t fade too much before the weather heats up.

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